Ideal Standard Close Coupling Ring Washer Doughnut Toilet WC Cistern

Product Information

As we have discussed, the most common cause of close coupled cistern leaks is that cistern isn’t sitting at 90° on top of the toilet pan. If the cistern is leaning over, even a little, one side of the doughnut lifts and, with a lot of water pressure, the leak is exposed. The close coupled toilet is a fairly modern iteration and was meant as a replacement for the older and less efficient low level toilet. This is a problem in itself as the two types of toilet suite are very rarely interchangeable due to their size and layout. To see how to get over this problem go to our project on changing toilets Although we have established the most likely cause of a newly installed leaking close coupled cistern above, occasionally the same type of leak will occur with a toilet that has previouysly had no issues, most of the time for years, so why would it suddenly start leaking? When screwing up these bolts once they are inserted down through the toilet pan, if you don’t tighten them evenly and together so that the cistern is pulled down straight and level then this can also be a cause of leaks as the cistern will sit at an angle and not seal the doughnut correctly. Other Causes of Leaks From Close Coupled Toilets

We are currently using Royal Mail Parcelforce and DPD as our delivery providers, all small items will be delivered by Royal Mail, these can take up to three working days to reach you. As the issue would also only present itself after the toilet is flushed then this could potentially appear as a failed seal between the cistern and pan. This would also coincide with a newly installed toilet. Using a spanner if there are nuts present or your fingers if there are wingnuts, unscrew each nut and then carefully lift the cistern free of the toilet pan. With the wall fixings removed the final job before removing the cistern is to loosen and remove the through bolts holding the cistern to the pan. I know nothing about plumbing, but since I am a home owner, I thought I should start from somewhere. The sighon of our toilet is worn out and I am trying to replace it with a new one. The toilet is Ideal Standard M360, very old so I had to struggle to remove the bolts, wing nuts etc with some help from DW40.In almost all cases there will be at least 1 screw holding the top of the cistern to the wall or surface behind. Along with the through bolts, these will hold the cistern firm and level. Before doing anything, the first task is to turn off the water supply to the cistern so that you can safely disconnect the flexi hose or other means of connection. To allow water in to fill the cistern, normally a flexi hose connector is attached to a water supply pipe and then screwed on to the base of the fill valve. In some instances a flexi hose isn’t used and copper pipe runs straight to the valve. With everything cleaned and ready refit, pop the brand new doughnut down on top of the toilet cistern in it’s recess making sure that it is sitting correctly and flat on the toilet pan.

Refit the 1 or 2 screws that secure the cistern to the surface behind but don’t tighten them too much, leave a little wiggle room. This is just to help hold everything in place and ensure nothing moves out of place. However this issue would not just become apparent after flushing the toilet, there would be a constant leak.Note: If there is no isolation valve installed then now is an ideal time to install one. See our project on how to fit an isolation valve for help on how to do so. To stop water running out of the cistern through these holes the fitting kit is supplied with 2 conical rubber washers. The thinnest end plugs down into the hole and as the bolts are done up, a metal washer on top crushes the rubber into the hole creating a firm seal.